Zadar is a very lively place! The old town is full of restaurants and tat shops but some lovely old buildings and wonderful views across the water.
We walked down from ‘pansion maria’ with its effusive owner, spurning the rowboat ferry but searching out his recommended restaurant.
It wasn’t shut! We dined well on sea bass and drank a bottle of croatian rose between us. Lou took up the offer of a free schnapps, plum slivovitch.
Afterwards we wandered the alleyways, passing live music in one bar and arriving at the organ of the sea.
I wasn’t expecting much but it was beautiful. Musical notes being created by the action of the waves running through something under our feet. Quite mesmerising. Nearby was a light show set into the pavement. Greeting of the sun is its name but the colours were a mixture of shifting blues. Walking back towards the footbridge we watched a grouo take the ferry and decided we should, for the experience. A wobbly five minutes (a yacht had just motored through) and we were on the opposite jetty where some very swanky, incredibly tall masted and imposing boats were moored. A step up from the rowboat! Today, dubrovnik.
Your description of Zadar makes me want to jump up and travel there immediately!