we went back to the ‘end of the world’ to eat on wednesday evening as the other restaurant had rather a limited menu. i had discovered the name ‘end of the world’ used to refer to the whole village as the valley road ended there. the extension up to the col de peyrol was built in 1937. on tuesday we had eaten the menu decouverte, a robust helping of choux farci (delish, must try to replicate it), truffade (already a winter favourite), jambon cru and salad. we drank a local auvergne rose called ‘terre et lave’, a volcanic reference?

this was followed by a selection of three cheeses; salers, forme d’ambert and a lovely tomme de chevre (goats’ cheese) made in the village. then pud – coulant de chocolat which i have always called chocolate fondant. on wednesday neither of us could cope with more cheese so it was homemade hamburger for me and ris de veau for lou after choux farci as entree. we passed on cheese and pud!

the dining room was much quieter than the previous evening. we walked home and hoped it wouldn’t be as cold overnight but it was!

we’d been a bit miffed at having to pay for jetons for the showers but they were wonderful. knowing there was copious hot water persuaded me out of bed and there was lots of space to hang up towels and my several layers of clothing. plus electric sockets for my hair dryer. almost, but not quite, making up for the ghastly squat and drop loos! our insulated mugs from the norwegian cruise came in very useful at breakfast waiting for the sun to come over the hill and warm us up. packing up the tent and stuff into the car was a breeze although we were concious that the family next door were cramming four people, two tents and a dog into the same space that we were using just for us.
a fruitless visit to the cheese farm but we found the same tomme in the village shop. then to the ‘end of the world’ for a last coffee and so lou could buy some artisan beers. we were gobsmacked the same staff had been working there for the whole time we had been in mandailles and still managed to be cheerful and welcoming. even more surprised to learn that one of the waiters has a ‘maison secondaire’ in bretenoux! a lovely break, we’ll be back….with more blankets! 🙂