Lots of weather warnings about the chaleur in most of France at the moment and due to get hotter (tomorrow’s journey could be sticky!) but we still went to la Rochelle as planned.
A calm start as we were going to take the train and it didn’t leave until just before 11am. Tickets bought, we sat on a shady platform bench and watched our fellow passengers slowly arrive, several with bicycles.

We had our ‘ats and bottles of icy cold water from the hotel’s free fountain so felt as ready as we could be for the day. Our friendly hotel owner had given me a map of the town and shown me the choice of two walks that started from the tourist office, only three hours or one and a half. We’d already decided we would catch the bus from the station to the Gross Horloge to save energy…which is what we did.

After coffee and a shweppes and a quick nose around the stalls on the quayside we began the shorter tour, albeit at landmark number 6 which cut out a big, and to our minds, unnecessary loop.

As is usual for us, the streets on the map didn’t seem to match those around us but we managed to orientate ourselves once we fetched up by the grandiose Hotel de Ville. There were several school groups of varying ages being shepherded around the same sights as us but we slowly left them behind.

Happily the narrow streets of the old town always had one side in the shade so we could walk comfortably most of the time.

We soon reached the part where the streets were arcaded but not in a grand way as in Bologna in Italy, rather more humble and not very high but giving excellent shelter from the sun..

It was much less crowded here with only a few dedicated map followers, usually going in the opposite direction!
Our hotel owner had teased me that he would be setting a test later in the evening so I made sure I photographed various information signs here and there on significant buildings! π

After a while we began to think about lunch and, more importantly, the need to sit down and draw breath. We had reached the Place de Verdun, passing a huge church on the way, the cathedral Saint Louis. We passed on a couple of eateries but then came to what we discovered after sitting down was the next landmark on our map. The sumptuous Cafe de la Paix, famous for being a favourite of George Simenon.

We sat at a small table by the open frontage and resisted being moved further inside to a bigger one. It really was a treat to behold!


We ordered salads in view of the heat and the need to keep moving afterwards but they were enormous and we struggled to do them justice.

But we gave it our best and feeling rested and refreshed we continued on our way but a heavily truncated version of the official route!

There were more arcades and pretty squares…and some tempting boutiques!

By the covered market we sidestepped fallen oranges as we dodged the stall holders stacking their vans at the end of their day.


On down the rue des Merciers where I took a photo of the information (he was joking, wasn’t he?)

Following the map we arrived back at the Hotel de Ville and I made a quick foray into the courtyard and took a photo of the sundial within it…

And then we were almost back at the quayside of the Vieux Port. With no shade the heat was fierce so we decided that the 15.33 train back had our name on it.

While looking for a bus stop we suddenly saw the imposing station in the distance so opted to walk… slowly…in that direction. We passed a few bric a brac stalls but while trying to take a photo my mobile told me that it was closing down as it was too hot! Now that’s never happened before.

Fortunately there was a modern arcade to walk under, not picturesque but practical.
Typically we were joined in the platform waiting room by an English couple who are also staying in Chatelaillon Plage so lots of chat about the weather (!) and living in France…
After a snooze with the air con running, a swim for me and then last aperos on the terrace (where another English couple struck up a conversation!) it was off for our last supper of the trip….home tomorrow.
